Depending on these documents and the state in which you live, it is possible that it is set up as a condominium, in which case the owner owns basicly the air space, and an undivided portion of everything else (the common area), or it is set up as an HOA, in which case each owner owns their walls and roofs, and the HOA (of which they would own an undivided portion of) would own the land and/or streets and amenities.

The form used will depend on how the original developer set it up. Your insurance agent will need a copy of the governing documents to determine what form/kind of insurance you need.

Rather than backing into "why should I buy permanent coverage", you need to set the goal FIRST. What do you want the insurance to DO?

If you buy term and invest the difference, you can STILL pay for burial costs and pass money to your heirs – a LOT MORE money, than through permanent insurance, if you plan properly.

So. What is permanent life insurance good for? Evading estate taxes, if you have a very large estate. You can pass money along without paying half to the government, if you pass it through life insurance. Or, to PAY estate taxes, if you own a business – like a family farm – that is WORTH a lot of money (subject to estate taxes!) but can't come up with that, when you die and pass it to your heirs.

Yes. There are goals that permanent insurance fills better than term. But for MOST people, buy term invest the difference is the better way to go.

The office visit co-pay will depend upon the policy. With most policies the office visit is not subject to the deductible so you'll just pay the $25. The $25 will not go towards the deductible. Some policies will have you pay the deductible first but these are generally rare with group policies. Other types (such as an HSA) also have you pay the deductible first but since these generally don't have a set office co-pay I doubt you have this type.

Most policies have limits and higher co-pays for therapy so you better check the policy first.

I've quoted this type of business, it STARTS at $20,000 for insurance. Here's the issue:

1. your personal auto won't cover the truck, trailer, or cargo while hauling for a fee. You need a commercial auto policy, and it will likely be rated long distance hauling.

2. You'll need filings to be hauling for others for a fee – including motor truck cargo coverage. Every single dent and ding, they're going to come after you – even if it was preexisting. THIS coverage, with a limit of $200,000, could easily run you $15,000 alone.

There is no cheap plan – this is good money, because it's high hazard insurance stuff. Sorry.

(1) Unless the life insurance policy was specifically referenced by contract number in your divorce settlement and released to you, it's most likely that contract is still considered to be community property. "Personal Property" would be things like jewelry, clothing, laptop – things that could easily be identified as yours- not a contract as with the policy. I also suspect that your former spouse was named as primary beneficiary and if that's the case, you would need his signature to change beneficiary.
(2) If you don't want to bring this situation to the attention of your former spouse or don't believe that you would get his cooperation without a hassle, there is another route you could take. You can call the insurance company and ask for a maximum loan against the policy. Depending upon how long you have owned the policy, you may be able to get 90% or so of the cash value (in your case that would be $6,300). Depending upon how long you have owned the policy, you may have to do this through a combination of loan and withdrawal. The policyowner service people can assist you. You should be able to get that handled right over the phone and have a check in your hands within ten business days.

Now, you may be thinking "but what about this loan"? "Do I have to pay it back?" A policyowner is NEVER required to pay back a loan. You are simply loaning out your own money. Once you take the loan, you will probably want to stop premium payments (since you were considering surrendering the policy anyway). If you get billed quarterly, semi-annually, or annually you can simply ignore the bills. Eventually the policy will lapse. If you pay through electronic transfer, you will need to ask your insurance company to change the premium mode to annual- then ignore the bills when they arrive. Again, eventually the policy will lapse and that will be the end of the matter.

Now, there is a caveat! Any time you surrender a life insurance policy where the cash value is larger than the sum of all premiums paid into the contract, you will be required to pay federal income tax on the difference (the gain). If you take a loan against the policy and stop all premium payments, eventually the policy will lapse. In this case, not until but when the policy eventually lapses (which could be several years from now), you will then be required to pay federal income tax on the difference between what you paid into the policy and what you pulled out of the policy (the loan not the cash value). If there is no gain or you get less back than the sum of all premium payments then no taxes will be due.

Hope that helps?

If they do charge your parents to activate you, it might be a good idea if you pay for the costs.

Because all of the above: I have debits and overdrafts as permanent conditions.
But keep trying to be in a good balance.